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1. What is eave protection?
2. What is underlay, and do I need it?
3. Can I just shingle over the old shingles?
4. What is drip edge?
5. Can I expect wood rot, and what will it cost?
6. What is ice damming?
7. What kind of valleys should I use?
8. What about wall and step flashing?
9. What about air venting?
10.What should I expect after the job?

Have a question? Email us and we will find you an answer.


ANSWERS

 1. Eave protection refers to a layer of felt paper or plastic that is under the shingles on the edge of your roof. This would extend from the bottom of the roof, a minimum of 12 inches past the exterior wall. On most houses this would be approximately 3 ft. This is the part of your house where most of the heat escapes from the house's outer wall, causing ice-damming. So that is why this area gets extra protection.
At Sunik, we prefer to use a minimum of 50 lb. roll roofing, as per our manufacturers specification.

 2. Underlay is a term used when referring to 15lb felt paper that is installed over the entire roof before the shingles are installed. Yes, you need it. CSA tests all shingles using underlay. The manufacturer recommends it, and you may be voiding part of your warranty from the shingle manufacturer by not using it. Wind can blow rain back up the roof slope, and paper is there for a second line of defense.
3. No. Stripping the old shingles off down to the deck, is the only way to insure a good surface for fasteners. There is no way to tell, without removing the shingles, whether or not you are covering up wood rot. Covering up old shingles is not the same as getting a new roof.

 

4. Drip edge is a band of metal that is fastened to the deck at the eaves. It's purpose is to protect the deck from rot, and to divert water into the eavestrough.

 


This is what happens to the edges of a roof that doesn't have any drip edge. This wood had to be replaced.
 

5. Whether or not you should expect wood rot depends upon the age of your house, and whether it was shingled properly. Most wood rot is contained to the bottom 12 inches of the roof. It is hard to determine the extent of rot without removing the shingles. Your contractor should make you aware, before the job is started, if he expects to find rot, and how much the per linear foot price is to replace it.


Here is an example of some rotten boards removed while roofing a house. This was all at the bottom edge of the roof, and might have been avoided if the roof had drip edge.

 

6. Ice damming is caused by the melting and freezing of snow on your roof. Snow melts and travels down the roof, then freezes up again, causing a ridge or dam of ice. Once the ridge is established, each time a melt occurs, the ridge holds back the water, allowing it to back up the roof and freeze again, compounding the problem. This is
one of many reasons why underlay is so important.

7. There are many ways to shingle a valley. All valleys should have extra protection. Manufacturers and installers will all have their own preference. The valley is one of the most critical areas of the roof. You should ask what, if any, extra protection they will be using.

At Sunik, we recommend metal, or ice and snow guard. If you are using interlocking shingles, the valleys should not be closed. This is NOT recommended, and a common source of leaks.


Here is a picture of a newly installed metal valley.

8. ALL flashings should be inspected to determine if the are reusable, or need to be replaced.

Here is a picture of some stepflashing that can be reused, as long as care is taken to tar up the nail holes.
9. If your roof is not properly vented, you could be throwing out your shingle manufacturers warranty. You could have condensation leaks, and shorten the life of your roof. It is important that your contractor understand air flow and know the manufacturers specification. Air venting is very important, and often overlooked.

 
10. You should get all written guarantees for labor and material up front.

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